Subourbon Southern Kitchen & Spirits — a suburban operation with a big bourbon selection in the Linworth area — proves that a restaurant with a dad-joke name can be a top-notch new eatery. That said, I hope Subourbon’s booze-pun naming approach doesn’t become trendy, lest I find myself reviewing eateries with titles like Village For-Rum and Gin-trified Neighborhood Tavern.
Name aside, Subourbon provides more proof that the budding restaurateurs who opened Alqueria Farmhouse Kitchen a few years ago in the University District — Jacob Hough and Patrick Marker, who honed their skills at Barcelona Restaurant and Bar — really know what they’re doing.
What they've done so far is create two zeitgeist-savvy, unpretentious fine-dining eateries whose mood and food strike an appealing balance between sophisticated and casual. At Subourbon, Hough and Marker have teamed up with chef Odine Hong, whose dressed-up Southern cooking at late, lamented Hen Quarter seamlessly aligns with Subourbon's upscale-downhome aesthetic.
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Subourbon eased its launch into the pub-like former Crafty Pint space by not changing much. Its small, buzzy windowed bar area leads to a moderate-sized dining room with rustic touches — bricks, dark tones, thick wooden tables — offset by brash artworks and decorations.
Two patios are offered: A small patch facing busy Dublin-Granville Road, and a preferable, roomy and enclosed side space, dubbed the “four-seasons” patio, with screened windows and a portable air-conditioner. Expect personable and professional service wherever you sit.
Bourbon is obviously a featured drink and several labels are available. Bourbons are also showcased in a strong little cocktail program.
Combining plum-infused Old Forester, Averna and (just detectable) Lillet Blanc, the easy-drinking Our Old Pal ($13) is well-named. Subourbon’s masterful take on the Vieux Carre ($14) — a New Orleans classic made here with Michter’s rye, Carpano Antica vermouth and Hennessy VS cognac — is a new favorite.
Not craving whiskey? The Artichoke Hold ($12) is a nifty tiki-esque drink with sweet and creamy notes and a refreshingly crisp and bitter finish.
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Those all would make fine partners with the popular pork belly burnt ends starter ($12). Unlike many pork belly dishes rife with gelatinous fat, this attractively plated creation starred large yet compact meat blocks cooked to firm and crisp. Their barbecue sauce-like glaze was contrasted by a lime-spiked, charred-pineapple salsa. Adding extra richness from an underlying aioli seems gratuitous, so blot the pork conservatively with it.
Bargain alert: The enormous catfish and okra appetizer ($11) was an entree-sized platter of fish nuggets sporting wonderfully crackly cornmeal jackets (hinting of celery seed) teamed with could-be-crisper, flour-battered okra. An addictive remoulade and fiery, tomato-based hot sauce were also on hand. Add a side of Subourbon’s huge and excellent mac and cheese ($8), and it’s dinner for two.
The green tomato club — which resembled a fancy grilled cheese more than a club sandwich — is the other side of the value coin ($16, with serious fries), but the dynamic combination of kicky pimento cheese, candied bacon and cornmeal-crusted tart tomatoes is inspired.
The repetition in the chicken fried chicken ($22) dinner’s name could imply: Its juicy chicken breast is twice as big as most others; its crunchy coating derives from a cooked-twice technique; it arrives with creamy and peppery gravy. Because it’s all that and a batch of honest mashed potatoes plus well-above-average green beans.
I liked the blackened redfish even better ($32). A hefty, zestily seasoned, sweet-tasting fillet — with crawfish etouffee as de facto gravy — was atop trimmed-and-grilled asparagus atop coarsely textured, delectable cheese grits. Although I wish the etouffee had more crawfish, this was a showstopper.
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Subourbon’s bone-in pork chop ($28) resembled a skillfully grilled steak. The juicy, smoky and delicious but untrimmed meat came with rich mushroom gravy, mashers and terrific collard greens.
Given Subourbon’s name, I was surprised its dense yet springy, sweet-potato-studded bread pudding ($9) wasn’t made tipsy with whiskey. But I wasn't surprised the caramel-sauced, scorched-marshmallow-iced dessert tasted even better than it looked.
Where: 2234 W. Dublin Granville Road, Northwest Side
Contact: 614-505-0773; www.subourboncolumbus.com
Hours: 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays; closed Sundays
Ambience: upscale pub-style space, with excellent service, connected to a small front patio and a larger, preferred “four-seasons” side patio
Quick click: This top-tier new restaurant specializing in comforting yet refined Southern food also showcases bourbon and offers impressive cocktails.